I’m still really fighting depression and really haven’t felt much like reading or writing blog posts, but I know I am long overdue and owe you stories/photos of Argentina, so here goes.
Cutting to the chase of the famous stuff, let’s just jump right in:
Evita

Where She Used to Live, the Casa Rosada.

Where She Lives Now, Recoleta Cemetery
Yes, Madonna really did sing from the balcony at Casa Rosada when they filmed the movie Evita. However, more interesting was listening to some recordings that were at the Evita Museum of the real Evita speaking from the balcony. Very powerful speaker, to say the least. For those of you that don’t know the story: After Evita died from ovarian cancer in her early 30s and her husband fell from power shortly thereafter, Evita’s body was hidden throughout the city, mutilated, smuggled to Italy and buried under a different name for many years, then found and buried in Spain, and then finally brought back to Argentina to her family tomb in Buenos Aires. The Evita Museum was actually one of my favorite things in Buenos Aires - well done and some really cool exhibits of her clothes, which were definitely fabulous. (Sorry folks, no pics there!) (And I’ll talk more about Recoleta Cemetery itself in another post.)

Tango
After Evita, Buenos Aires is probably best known for Tango. I went to the Tango Museum in the morning, had a private lesson at my hotel (great fun!!) in the afternoon and then went to a Tango Show at a famous turn-of-the-century cafe that night (the famous Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges was a regular patron). The musicians were fabulous as were the dancers, and they did a really nice rendition of my favorite Astor Piazola piece (he’s a famous Argentine composer who took tango to the classical music world).

Protests
Protests are a daily occurrence in the bizarre political world of Argentina. This is the mother, literally, of all protests. During the military dictatorship from 1976-83, thousands of middle-class people, largely students, were abducted, tortured and killed, most for no reason at all. They became known as the “Disappeared.” When the dictatorship was overthrown, a group of Mothers of the Disappeared, wearing their white scarves, started protesting for the release of information about these tortures and this period of history. Every Thursday at 3pm the mothers continue to protest for this information, walking in a circle around a statue in the middle of the Plaza de Mayo in front of the Casa Rosada (note the white scarf painted on the sidewalk denoting their path).

Machismo
Okay, what else could one say about this huge obelisk in the middle of the widest boulevard in the world? Seriously - it’s like 32 lanes wide and takes two cycles of traffic lights to cross - you can’t even do it in one if you run. But regardless, Argentina lives up to the preconceptions of military/goverment machismo. This boulevard is named the Ave. de 9 de Julio, and every other street/plaza/building/whatever seems to be named after an important military/government date or something. May 25th was apparently another important date besides July 9th. I have no idea why. But the preconceptions are true - the big, massive, impressive buildings were all government ones. Elsewhere in Latin America the Catholic Cathedral dominates the landscape, but in Buenos Aires they were hard to find.
And speaking of military … remember the Faulkland Island War? (Okay, if you’re in Argentina, it’s the Malvinas Islands.) Anyways, the Argentines really remember it (their spectacular failure in invading the Islands is a big reason the military dictatorship was overthrown). So much so that this lovely tower which the British (a big trading power with the Argentines in the late 19th/early 20th century) gave the city:

Now faces this Memorial to those Argentines who died in the War of the Malvinas:

Think they’re still bitter they lost?
And finally …

Lots of Dogs
See …. I’m not the only one with lots of dogs! No, seriously, this is a professional dogwalker and Buenos Aires is known for their dog walkers. They’re everywhere (as is the poop!) and made me smile the whole trip. And speaking of dogs, this is Fernando:

Resistencia, the city in the north where my friends are doing their mission work, is filled with stray dogs. Back in the ’60s, a prominent businessman took a stray under his wing, named him Fernando, and he soon became a mascot of sorts for the city. This statue is on the main square, and another is near the cafe where Fernando is buried. A local artisan at one of the evening fairs had sculptures of Fernando, so I had to buy one of course. The sculpture is anatomically correct, which is yet just another reflection of machismo Argentine society and the reason why there are so many strays in Resistencia to this day. Stealing from Bob Barker … remember to spay and neuter your pets!
Next Installment: Argentina Part II, Architecture